I crossed Lake Windermere in a small wooden boat, got off the boat, and waited a little until a minibus arrived. I sat down next to the driver's seat, which had a good view. The narrow slope between the stone walls was just wide enough for a minibus to pass through.
I got off the minibus in the village of Hawkshead and first bought lunch at the co-op. The milk was in pint plastic containers. It was strange that milk in the paper cartons I am used to seeing in Japan was not sold there.
I decided to walk from here to Lake Coniston over the mountain pass. I think there should be a footpath through the farm, but I didn't have a detailed map so I couldn't check. I knew there was no problem if it was a road for cars, so I decided to walk along the main road, which was only wide enough for cars and had no sidewalks.
The slope with stone walls on both sides was a steep climb, and the hot sun was beating down on me. Even after passing the pass, Coniston Lake is still not in sight. I turn left and walk towards Bank Ground Farm, the HollyHowe. The road eventually goes through the forest. I somehow pass by a few farms named Ground Farm, and walk along a road that runs parallel to the lake shore, away from the lake.
It was past 3pm when I arrived at Holihau, my long-awaited place. As I entered the road to the farm toward the lake, I saw many cars coming. Looking out, Kanchenjunga towered over the lake. Holihau was divided into several buildings.
There was a reception desk just inside the small entrance. I took out the printout of the email I applied for from my backpack and handed it to the person who seemed to be the attendant. I wonder if her is Ms.Betty, who received the email? I then left the entrance and was guided to another building. It was a building called Barn, and it was probably originally a barn. It doesn't really deserve to be called a barn. It's a solid, three-storey building made of stone. There are several doors inside, like a small hotel. My room has a window facing the lake and two beds. There is a bathroom with a bathtub when you go out into the corridor. It's a B&B, but it feels more like a guesthouse than a guesthouse. It doesn't have the rural farmhouse feel I was hoping for. I wish the barn I'd been longing for had been more like a farmhouse.
But first, I have to take a bath for the first time in a while. I've been taking showers so it's a relief to have a hot bath. After relaxing, I went to ask where the lounge was. Apparently it was through the breakfast room. And I found it - this is the Ransom Fan room. There are various books there. I found a notebook, so I wrote down that I had finally come to Hollyhow.
When I opened the glass door of the lounge, I could walk gently down the grassland leading to the lake. I suppressed my urge to zigzag in the gentle headwind from the lake and walked straight down the grassland at a quicker pace. There was a small boathouse on the lakeshore, and a small jetty. Unfortunately, there was no yacht.
When I returned to my room, I spread out a map on my bed and thought about how I would spend the rest of my time today. I might be able to go to Dog's Home, which appears in "Summer Vacation on the Scarab". Tomorrow is the voyage to Wildcat Island, so today is the only day I can go.
Now that I've decided, I hurried off. I packed a map and other things in a small backpack, left Hollyhaw behind, and started walking south on the footpath. At first, I passed through pastures. The path between the grass was soft and muddy in places, and there were still things left behind by the cows. Eventually, I came out onto a road and continued walking, looking down at the lake to the right. I could see machines collecting the cut grass. After passing Brantwood House, the path continued close to the lakeshore. I walked while comparing the description in the guidebook "In the footsteps" with the records on the Ransamites' website.
It was difficult to find the way from the road where cars went into the valley on the other side of the lake. However, I found a small footpath sign attached to a post at a gate blocking the road. The road was wide enough for a car to enter, but a large, wide wooden gate was closed. Following the arrows on the footpath sign, I climbed over a fence and entered the mountain path in the valley. I thought this was the path in the valley, but I wasn't sure. At first the path was a few meters wide, but it soon turned from a grassy path to a rocky path, and narrowed as you would expect from a mountain path in a forest. I used a compass to make sure I was heading northeast. I wasn't sure if this was the right path, but I had no choice but to go a little further. I walked along the rocky, difficult path for a while.
Soon, I saw a small cabin ahead of the forest. This is it, a cabin made of piled up rocks. It has one big window and one wooden door. Yes, I found it, just like Ransom's illustration. The door was easy to open with just a string. When I went inside, a lot of light came in from where the window was. The cabin was larger than I expected, and there was a fireplace that Dorothea used. The stonework of the window was a little crumbling, but it was a sturdy cabin. I went outside and looked inside through the big window. There was a stone chimney on the roof where the fireplace was. The grass was too overgrown on the back side of the cabin, so I couldn't walk all the way around it.
Let's get back to Hollyhow before it's too late. I'm very satisfied that I was able to find the doghouse that Dick and Dorothea used on my own. I decided to walk home slowly. After my exploration, I walked along the same footpath through the farm pasture and returned to Hollyhow. It took about an hour to get back.
HollyHowe is a B&B. This means bed and breakfast, so dinner is not provided. There are no restaurants or food stores on this side of the lake, so tonight's food will be just stale bread and juice. If you boil water in a pot, you can make instant coffee, so you can relax on a bench outside overlooking the lake. Tonight you will be staying at the long-awaited Halihau.
The refreshing breeze and Kanchenjunga on the other side of the lake, the sun slowly setting.